Zu design: An enduring incubator

Jane Bowden

1 September 2024

Jane Bowden’s jewellery gallery and workshop in an Adelaide shopping arcade has nurtured generations of talent.


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Zu design is a Tarndanya/Adelaide-based gallery and workshop run by jewellery designer and maker Jane Bowden. Established in 1997 and located in Gay’s Arcade in the Rundle Mall precinct, Zu design has represented over 300 contemporary jewellers from around Australia. It is an inclusive space that offers studio access, practical support, retail opportunities and curated exhibitions to both emerging and established makers.

The initial foundation of Zu design began in 1992 with The Gold Fish Studio, an artist-run space created by Jane Bowden, Juliet Michell and Peter Jeffrey. In 1995 The Gold Fish Studio added Roman Kielczewski and relocated to JamFactory. At the end of this tenancy in 1997, Jane Ruljancich joined Jane, Juliet and Roman to create a new collective named Zu design in Gay’s Arcade. Zu design was created with a deep passion for supporting the arts and showcasing local creatives. Now in its 27th year of operation, Zu design continues to nurture and support the skills, talents and careers of Australian makers.

Jane Bowden is a jewellery maker and designer whose process-driven creative practice is inspired by the aesthetics of architecture and textiles. A fascination with scale lies at the heart of Jane’s practice and offers her the challenge of creating increasingly smaller and more finely detailed pieces. Jane studied a Bachelor of Design (Jewellery and Metalsmithing) at the University of South Australia, graduating in 1990. She has since built a successful practice that is divided into creating commissions for clients, producing exhibition work and managing Zu design.

The sole proprietor of Zu design since 2012, Jane is a passionate advocate for promoting the handmade and is keen to cultivate a warm, community spirit within the studio: “Since 1997, many makers have shared my workshop. There are always lively chats around the table that offer problem-solving, sharing of knowledge and casual critical sessions. It’s great to work in a collaborative and inspirational space that enables us to grow as jewellers and designers.”

Jane Bowden reflects on the history of Zu design.

✿ What are one or two memorable events in its history?

There are so many memorable events, including many exhibitions, solo and group shows and many access tenants over the last 27 years. Recently I was asked to curate a show for JamFactory to tell the story of Zu design. It was an amazing honour to be exhibiting alongside JamFactory ICON 2024 Julie Byfield. If you are visiting Adelaide both exhibitions are running until mid-September, Zu design in Gallery Two and Julie Blyfield in Gallery One.

✿ How are decisions made about your program of activities?

Zu design has a series of group exhibitions that have become annual shows. We offer themes and invite makers to exhibit for Fringe – during February, South Australian Living Arts Month – during August, and our group Christmas show from November. We have lively brainstorming sessions to come up with the focus of each show, using our talented graphic designer Jannah Poole, to create the feel of each exhibition. Our program is a team effort with input from the Zu design access tenants, Simon Williams, Angela Giuliani, Renai Perkas, Jialei Zheng and Susannah Gai.

✿ What are the reasons why people join your organisation?

We don’t really have members, other than our access tenants who rent bench space in the workshop. I showcase over 120 makers currently and am always open to looking at new work to be represented in Zu design. The only criterion is the pieces have to have a unique style. We encourage makers to show work that they are passionate about.

✿ What are your hopes for the future?

I hope that craftspeople will be recognised for their skill and creativeness and are renumerated appropriately for their work. I will keep advocating for the makers and encouraging them in their professional practices.

All images by Michael Haines Photography

Visit Zu design at 102G Gay’s Arcade, Balcony Level off Adelaide Arcade 112 Grenfell St, Adelaide, browse adelaidearcade.com.au/retailers/zu-design and follow @zudesignjewellery

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